Pompeii's evil twin: A flooded city of vice at the bottom of the Bay of Naples

The ancient Roman city of Baiae was located on the northwestern coast of the Bay of Naples. At the time of its greatest prosperity, especially towards the end of the Roman Republic, it was considered a fashionable centre of the famous for its hedonistic entertainments and associated scandals, a kind of Las Vegas of the ancient Roman Empire. Today, visitors can see the luxurious houses built by the rich of the time, as well as well-preserved statues, in one of the few underwater archaeological parks in the world. The mystery that the flooded city holds is so fascinating that it has been explored for years by marine archaeologists and became the basis for one of the episodes of the fourth series of the Discovery Channel's documentary series , The Shattered Past.

The city, built in an active volcanic area, was named after the helmsman of Odysseus' ship, Baeus, who is believed to have been buried somewhere in its vicinity. Perhaps originally intended as a port for the ancient Greek colony of Cumae, it became a prominent holiday resort that catered to the whims of the wealthy and powerful Roman elite. Villas were built here by Julius Caesar, Augustus, Cicero and the emperor Nero, who also frequented this then fashionable place. Some fragments from that time describe the Baiae as a "den of vice" and a "vortex of luxury" and we can only imagine how it was then in the crowdedresort, known for its frivolity, decadence and immorality, where residents and visitors indulged in beach parties and long drinks. Because of these negative attributes, the city was perceived as a place that could threaten the Romans. Nevertheless, Baiae became a mark of quality both inside and outside the European continent, and even a few medieval writers tried to put themselves in the shoes of this elite community and capture a visit to the town in their works.

Due to its volcanic bedrock, Baiae was known for its healing hot springs. It was therefore easy to build a spa here. At that time, spa resorts served, among other things, as meeting places. Here, visitors interacted with their peers, observed each other's interactions, and analyzed how one dressed, what one ate, or how one spent one's leisure time. Awareness of this voyeuristic predilection also influenced local entrepreneurs who created such floor plans that facilitated visitor interaction and increased the attractiveness of their resort. The wealthier ones here were happy to invest in architecture, decoration and facilities in the belief that this would improve their own status.

Health, but also heartbreak

The spa, as it was then conceived, was not only a place of rest and health, but above all a place of pleasure. Their builders were praised for their perfect work with the light that flooded the buildings, for the use of marble, for the installation of works of art, and for the overall atmosphere of beauty and luxury that surrounded visitors. For the same, however, Baiae and his guests also reaped criticism over the years. "Baiae is a place to be avoided because, although it offers certain advantages, it has become an exclusive resort of luxury," wrote Seneca the Younger, for example. What bothered the author the most? Drunks loitering on the beach, sailing to loud singing, orchestras, secret lovers' meetings in broad daylight, gossip and the absence of dignity.

Women, of course, were subjected to this criticism more often than their male counterparts. An example is a certain Roman noblewoman, Clodia, who became for Cicero a symbol of the decadent mores of Roman society attending the Baiae. Both during her marriage and as a widow, Clodia was renowned for her colourful lifestyle: A wealthy woman, she financed her brother's political campaigns, received many visitors, and socialized with married men as well. One of her lovers was a certain Caelius, whom she later accused of attempted poisoning. In a work written by Cicero in defence of Marcus Caelius Rufus, he describes her as a woman of loose morals who displayed her decadent lifestyle both in Rome and in Baiae: "Clodia is a woman who is accessible to all."' The fact that her behaviour was an open secret was unforgivable for Cicero. His rhetoric later greatly influenced the portrayal of female characters in the works of other ancient and medieval writers.

The decline of tourism

Unfortunately, the good times did not last very long. After the fourth century, the popularity of the Baiae declined. This was due to the impact of the fall of the Roman Empire in 476, the Gothic War in the sixth century, followed by the Lombard invasion in the eighth century, and the Arab pirate raids in the ninth century, which left the city finally abandoned. The success of any industry depends on stable government and guarantees of personal security. It is not surprising, therefore, that centuries of unrest have caused a gradual decline in visitor numbers, although this does not mean that the spa complex has permanently closed.

Baiae has only become fatal due to volcanic activity. Due to the movement of tectonic plates, the water level rose and the lower part of the town was flooded by the shallow waters of the bay. Foundations, buildings and wall decorations were irreversibly damaged. It was only later underwater archaeological excavations that uncovered many of the admirable buildings that the spa resort once boasted.

Today, visitors to the underwater museum can explore the ruins of the town during a glass-bottom boat ride, snorkelling or diving. Although the town has long since ceased to be the renowned resort of its many delights, its waters still hold wonders.

Michaela Celárková - Discovery